The aptly named Panorama Trail winds along the south rim of Yosemite Valley from its trailhead at Glacier Point down to the John Muir Trail at the brink of Nevada Fall, here visible as the upper cascade on the right side of the frame. From this point, just below the trailhead, Nevada and Vernal Falls appear tiny, and Liberty Cap (just to the left of Nevada Fall) resembles a gumdrop. Half Dome shows its sheer profile, its summit sticking precariously out over the cliff like a nose. Behind it is Clouds Rest.

The aptly named Panorama Trail winds along the south rim of Yosemite Valley from its trailhead at Glacier Point down to the John Muir Trail at the brink of Nevada Fall, here visible as the upper cascade on the right side of the frame. From this point, just below the trailhead, Nevada and Vernal Falls appear tiny, and Liberty Cap (just to the left of Nevada Fall) resembles a gumdrop. Half Dome shows its sheer profile, its summit sticking precariously out over the cliff like a nose. Behind it is Clouds Rest.

On the morning of Saturday, July 5, I told Chisos to be a good girl and jumped in a cab bound for the airport. My flight to Sacramento via D/FW was uneventful, save for the sobering views of the Northern Sierra mountains on fire as we descended into California’s capitol city. A cab took me to the REI, which did not have the GPS maps I was looking for. Fortunately, I had loaded some waypoints into it before I left, and I always bring paper maps, albeit at a greater scale than I like to use. I picked up some supplies which I couldn’t bring on the plane, such as solid stove fuel, and then I walked to a light-rail station a mile away. The train took me into downtown, and another train took me to the Amtrak station.

The San Joaquin train was on time, and I was off to Merced, one of the gateway towns for Yosemite. I walked 2 1/2 miles to the hotel — practically the furthest hotel from the train station I could have picked — and spent the evening hanging out with some fire fighters getting an R&R night. One told a harrowing story of a rescue in which they had to let the flames pass overhead.

The next morning, I had a cab take me back to the train station, where I caught a YARTS bus for Yosemite National Park. I finally made it, after five years of planning and two aborted trips, and marveled at the scenery out the windows before I was dropped off at Camp Curry, my home for the next two nights.

I stayed in a sweltering one-room cabin (without a bathroom), which didn’t really cool down until just before sunrise. Fortunately, there was a fan, which sat on the heater and blew air across the bed. But this wasn’t time for resting in a cabin — it was time to explore. Well, first I grabbed a bite to eat at the pizza patio, then I caught the Yosemite Valley shuttle bus to Yosemite Village and walked to the Lower Yosemite Falls trailhead.

Lower Yosemite FallsA short, fairly level hike leads to a viewing platform, bridge, and giant rockpile at the base of the falls. People were crawling all over the rocks, and I was soon among them. Despite it being late in the waterfall season, there was still a fair amount of water rushing over the falls, which are 320 feet high.

The upper fall was reduced to wispy curtains of water, a far cry from its peak flow, but impressive nonetheless. The middle cascades were hidden from view. Altogether, Yosemite Fall is 2,425 feet high, one of the 5-10 tallest waterfalls in the world depending on what list you’re reading.

I spent over an hour at the lower falls area before beginning a meandering ramble back to Camp Curry.

Half Dome and Merced RiverI criss-crossed the Merced River over a series of bridges and paths, catching nice views of Yosemite Falls and Half Dome as I went. I also passed through Housekeeping Camp, a rollicking party of a campground which looked more like the infield of an NASCAR race than a place to enjoy nature. I caught a nice sunset through the haze of agricultural dust and wildfire smoke before enjoying the buffet at Camp Curry.

After an uncomfortable night, I was off to the Wilderness Center to pick up my permit for the next day’s backpacking trip. I had reserved it months ago, fortunately, and I was among the first group of folks who got the spiel and were given permits that morning. From there, I hustled over to Yosemite Lodge to catch my shuttle bus to Glacier Point. After picking up my previously reserved tickets for that day and the next, I ran over to the food court for a quick hot breakfast. In the ensuing scramble, I managed to leave my trekking pole at the cash register. Too late! I had to get on the bus.

At Glacier Point, I chugged some water and bought another trekking pole. It was basically a varnished broom handle with a leather cord strap and the word “YOSEMITE” burned into it, but it was cheap. It was 8.5 miles and a net loss of 3,200 feet of elevation back to the Valley, so even a broom handle was better than no trekking pole at all, despite the bad blister it put on my left hand.

View From Glacier PointThe views from Glacier Point are incredible. Yosemite Valley wraps around the base of the point, and Yosemite Falls looks like a pair of ribbons hanging from a distant cliff. Most of the Valley’s iconic landmarks are visible from the point. After soaking in the views, I headed for the Panorama Trail and began the descent back to the Valley. This was my warm-up hike. The views along the Panorama Trail are amazing. Half Dome shows its sheer profile, its summit hanging precariously over empty space like a great nose, its mighty shoulders, tree-clad and steep, crash down to the valley below. From the trailhead, one can see straight up Tenaya Canyon, bounded on the right by Half Dome and Clouds Rest behind it, and Mount Watkins to the left. Nevada and Vernal Falls look positively puny from that lofty perch, and Liberty Cap appears as a gumdrop.

Liberty Cap and FriendsThe trail swings away from the valley to cross Illilouette Creek, and it provides the only good vantage point to see Illilouette Fall when it’s not at peak flow (at which time, it’s visible from the Mist Trail). Following a steep but brief climb out of Illilouette Gorge, the trail continues to swing closer to Half Dome, which begins to resemble a giant loaf of sourdough bread, its sheer edges replaced by a vast hump. Liberty Cap also grows in size, revealing itself to be a massive conical dome, which would be more impressive but for its proximity to Half Dome.

The thundering sound of Nevada Fall accompanies the hiker for the last mile or so, when a sharp descent leads to the John Muir Trail and a bridge across the Merced River at the fall’s brink. From the opposite bank, it’s possible to gain several vantage points of the top of the falls and even sit beside the rushing water. Some folks were wading in a pool just yards upstream from the falls — unwise, to be sure — while a cadre of resident squirrels were begging for, and receiving, handouts from children. The Muir Trail provides even better views of Liberty Cap and its friends.

Vernal FallFrom the Muir Trail, a cutover trail leads to the Mist Trail, which descends alongside Vernal Fall and the swirling mist it creates. The Mist Trail is essentially a staircase — a crowded one at that — which I would not recommend taking a full pack down. The stairs along the 100 yards or so of mist are slick, though the mist is certainly refreshing on a hot day.

From there, the trail rejoins the John Muir Trail at a bridge across the river, providing one last glimpse at Vernal Fall. The trail follows the river downstream to Happy Isles, the appropriately named trailhead (Hikers are happy to see the isles.) which brought me to the end of the warm-up hike.

I took a shuttle bus back to Camp Curry, where I took a shower in the gross stalls by the swimming pool, hung out by the pool awhile, and caught another buffet dinner at the camp diner. I was going to watch the ranger program that evening, but it was a movie about the history of one of the park’s hotels, not exactly what I had in mind. I retired to my hot cabin and got my backpack prepped for the next morning, when the grand adventure would officially begin.

Continues in Part 2: Porcupine and Yosemite Creeks.

The complete trip report:
Part 1: Yosemite Valley and Glacier Point Dayhikes
Part 2: Porcupine and Yosemite Creeks
Part 3: Entering the Grand Canyon
Part 4: Walking Among the Waterfalls
Part 5: Glen Aulin to Cathedral Lakes
Part 6: The Tempest
Part 7: Sunrise to Clouds Rest
Part 8: Facing Fear on Half Dome
Part 9: Triumph Atop Half Dome
Part 10: The Final Miles
Part 11: From Woods to Wharves
Part 12: The Streets of San Francisco
Part 13: Muir Woods and Foggy Shores

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