Alpine Lake to Baron Creek

The ridge between unnamed peaks is reflected in the waters of Upper Baron Lake.

A good night’s sleep made the difference. As the ninth day on the trail began, to a nice sunrise, I felt refreshed, but also a tad bit sad. There would likely be just one more night on the trail. I finished short of where I needed to be — the Baron Lakes — in order to have much of a chance of completing the route I’d drawn up. Today’s hike had two distinct parts: a 900-foot climb to Baron Divide, then a 3,600-foot descent to the junction of Baron Creek and its north fork. At that point, I’d have one final choice to press on, or return to the trailhead.

Far fewer fish were dancing this morning as the sky gradually brightened. The peaks surrounding the lake began to glow pink as the unseen sun rose. I scrambled across a makeshift log bridge and hopped over boggy areas to reach a good vantage point across from my campsite. From there, I watched morning come, first to the high peaks, then to the forest, and finally to the lake.

After enjoying the sunrise, I packed up and said goodbye to this overused campsite and loved-to-death gem of a lake. The temperature overnight only fell to 45 degrees, and there was hardly a cloud in the sky. This would be another hot day, made hotter by the large descent in front of me. But first, a climb. It was 8:20 a.m.

The trail immediately gains 300 feet in three broad switchbacks, clearing a headwall which forces Alpine Lake’s outlet creek to flow almost due east. Views of Alpine Lake disappear almost immediately upon gaining this bench, and it never appears again. The trail skirts a small lake as it passes a crowned pyramidal peak. I was surprised to see several frogs in the shallows, as this lake must surely freeze solid in winter. It sits at 8,745 feet in elevation. Shortly afterward, the trail climbs again, providing a scenic view of the small lake, its attendant forest, and the surrounding peaks.

A nameless lake beneath Baron Divide

I spent much of my first hour staring at a saddle between Pt. 9,510 and Pt. 9,727 believing that was Baron Divide. The trees ran right up to it, but it looked manageable, even downright easy after eight days of ups and downs. Of course, this wasn’t the right pass. It wasn’t clear until the trail took a hard left at 8,950 feet and proceeded directly toward a rocky knife-edge just above the trees. The last 250 feet of elevation gain was like a staircase, but at least it was a staircase lined with yellow and white wildflowers.

Baron Divide is the low point along a north-south ridge between Pt. 9,510 and Pt. 9,363. Several tall trees line a rocky flat which tilts toward the west. A maze of social trails head toward both summits and wander among the trees and big boulders for views of the Baron Lakes, which are impossibly blue beneath the bare ruddy gray slopes of Monte Verita, Warbonnet Peak, Pt. 9,637, and Pt. 9,211.

The impossibly blue Baron Lakes, as seen through the trees lining Baron Divide

I reached the divide by 9:30, climbing 900 feet and covering 1.7 miles in a little over an hour, under a bright sun which had already cleared the mountains. The atmosphere was still; the only clouds were airplanes’ contrails. This was the first pass without a breeze. I spent about half an hour exploring the divide, having a snack, and pondering whether to climb the shorter nearby summit. I decided that the 8 miles I had to go, at a minimum, were more important, so I strapped on my pack and began the steep, 600-foot descent to Upper Baron Lake.

Monte Verita stood solemn guard over the lakes, and its piercing eye was upon the trail as it switchbacked steeply down from the divide, only occasionally passing behind a stumpy tree or car-sized boulder. Views of the lake improved as the trees gave way to bare rock, while Pt. 9,637 stood high above, and was reflected in the waters of, Upper Baron Lake.

Pt. 9,637 is reflected in the still blue waters of Upper Baron Lake

Forty minutes after I left the pass, I’d reached the shore of Upper Baron Lake. The trip down was less arduous as it was jaw-droppingly beautiful. Each switchback delivered ever better views of the lakes and the naked peaks behind them. The high ramparts of Monte Verita and Warbonnet Peak were indescribably breathtaking.

Monte Verita and Warbonnet Peak tower above Upper Baron Lake

Monte Verita (right) reflects in Upper Baron Lake.

I did not linger at this lake, as I expected the views to be even better at Baron Lake. Though they look immediately adjacent from Baron Divide, Baron Lake is actually 200 feet lower than Upper Baron Lake, and a significant portion of the lake is hidden from view by the land supporting the higher lake. In fact, the trail barely kisses the lake’s upper quarter, and most of its shoreline is left alone. A faint social trail heads upstream, perhaps to nice campsites, but the main trail is austere in its visitation of this jewel of a lake.

My assumption about the views from Baron Lake turned out to be quite correct.

Monte Verita and Baron Lake

This would turn out to be the last lake I’d see on the backpacking portion of my time in the Sawtooths. Sensing this, I lingered a bit at the outlet stream, even pausing again to see Monte Verita and the lake’s surface through the trees, before turning to the canyon ahead.

By this point, I had become an expert on crossing streams on logs, rocks, and nothing at all. So I was not the least bit distressed when the log across the outlet stream of Baron Lake rolled over and into the water as I walked on it. Without even a flutter of my heart, I bounded onto an adjacent log, which promptly snapped in half under my weight, and then onto a third log, which wobbled but held its position. It led into brush, but I fought a quick path through it, and now the crossing had officially moved 7 feet upstream.

For most of the next hour, the trail wandered through a fairly open pine forest with plenty of views of the surrounding peaks, losing elevation gradually. The trail crossed the narrow Baron Creek several times. At 12:30 p.m., I saw the creek up close one last time before a long, hot slog. The canyon’s gradual downhill slope is rudely interrupted by a massive rock pile between Pt. 9,211 to the southwest and Pt. 9,333 to the northeast. It was about 80 degrees when I reached the high point of this pile. The unmistakable sound of a roaring waterfall was nearby, but the falls were invisible. The heat reflected off the white granite rocks was far hotter than 80.

This rock fall forms Baron Creek Falls and a harsh hiker cut-around.

At nearly 7,800 feet in elevation, the high point was more than 1,300 feet below Baron Divide. Another 2,300 feet of elevation loss awaited. From this vantage point, the view down the canyon looked almost enticing.

Looking down Baron Creek Canyon

What an incredibly hot, frustrating and slow next mile this would be! In my notebook this evening, I wrote, “Huge, steep, loose rock climb around Baron Falls, which would have been cool to see up close.” Typical of the horse trails in these mountains, this trail gets no closer than 700 feet away from the falls. It took me over an hour to traverse the hideously steep and unstable rockpile to reach the relative calm of hard earth, which itself was covered with downed trees and precarious horse-made shortcuts. Below the falls, the vegetation suddenly rose in height, thickness, and bad intent.

I yielded to a pair of horse trains, which kicked up lots of dust and left behind lots of obstacles. The forest grew shorter and thicker. Surrounded by huge barren slopes, greenery was constricted to a narrow ribbon around the heard but unseen creek. Views of the surrounding peaks remained good, especially of those behind me.

Warbonnet Peak peers above the shoulder of Pt. 9,124 (right).

By 2:30 p.m. the trail once again found Baron Creek, along a rocky beach barely 30 feet long, underneath a scraggly looking tree. Good enough for a break! I got water, made my hot meal, and moved my seat to keep in what little shade I had. It was in the mid-80s. The rushing water made it easier to believe it was cooler, and the “shade” was refreshing.

Lunch spot along Baron Creek

It was 4 o’clock before I hit the trail again. Hot and tired, I had already decided that the confluence of Baron Creek and its north fork would be this day’s end. Otherwise, a long and uncertain climb awaited. I had seen nothing in the last two miles that I would call a decent place to camp, and I assumed the north fork trail had the same conditions. Views of the peaks were nice as the forest was still fairly short along the creek. A forest fire must have cleared this place in the not too distant past, but not so soon as to let the aspens grow. The pines were already breaking through, but not so high as to drown out the aspens.

There were a few wildflowers, but far more berries on the shrubs. The grasses were already golden. The short summer was coming to an end. It was time to go to seed, and the blooms were largely gone. Only the trees were still green, yet even the aspens appeared to know that time was up.

A typical view from the Baron Creek Trail

As the day and heat wore on, I was eager for water. My crossing of Moolack Creek was empty — it was dry. I pressed on.

I reached the trail junction at 5:30. To my right lay the path I’d planned, a loop to Sawtooth Lake, the Trail Creek Lakes, Observation Point, and finally Grandjean, a climb and loss of thousands of feet. To my left was simply Grandjean, 3.5 miles away, all downhill. I vowed I wouldn’t decide until morning, but I knew I my decision had already been made … yesterday.

The trees I selected to hang from were perfectly aligned to block the sun. I set my camp chair beneath my hammock and stayed in the shade until the sun disappeared behind the mountains. The rushing sound of the creek was a welcome change from the still lake waters of the previous nights.

The rushing waters of Baron Creek

“Horses have camped here,” I wrote in my notebook, no doubt in response to the flies and the smell. No matter. The heat really got to me this day. I started off spry and light on my feet, but the long, hot, and uneven descent across the rock pile beat me down. My campsite was 2,700 feet below Alpine Lake, but it was fortunately clear of mosquitoes, and the flies died down after the sun disappeared behind the mountains.

The sunset was actually quite pretty though impossible to photograph through the trees. It was going to be a warm evening.

I decided I was looking forward to the following, in this order: ice, shower, hot food served on a plate, a salad, music, iced tea, beer.

Reflection in Upper Baron Lake, SW09-0820-6156R, UTM 11T 0657899 E 4882356 N NAD27; Nameless Lake Beneath Baron Divide, SW09-0820-6095R, 0658494 E 4882043 N; Baron Lakes From Baron Divide, SW09-0820-6108R, 0658319 E 4881897 N; Pt. 9,637 Reflected in Upper Baron Lake, SW09-0820-6126R, 0658177 E 4881991 N; Monte Verita and Warbonnet Peak, SW09-0820-6135R, 0658068 E 4882171 N; Monte Verita Reflected in Upper Baron Lake, SW09-0820-6156Rm 0657899E 4882356 N; Monte Verita and Baron Lake, SW09-0820-6161R, 0657767 E, 4882763 N; Baron Creek Rockfall, SW09-0820-6188R, 0657521 E, 4884594 N; Baron Creek Canyon, Sw09-0820-6191R, 0657446 E 4884715 N; Warbonnet Peak and Pt. 9,124, SW09-0820-6211R, 0655737 E 4885338 N; Lunch spot along Baron Creek, SW09-0820-6214R, 0655139 E, 4885685 N; Typical View From the Baron Creek Trail, SW09-0820-6225R, 0653455 E 4887015 N; and Rushing Waters of Baron Creek, SW09-0820-6237R, 0652074 E 4888231 N; Sawtooth Wilderness, Boise National Forest, Idaho | ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

Potentially related posts:

• Lakes of the Sawtooths, Part 4
• Baron Creek to Grandjean
• Cramer Divide to Alpine Lake
• Sawtooth Wilderness Waterfalls
• Lakes of the Sawtooths, Part 3
• Imogene Lake to Hidden Lake
• Pettit Lake to Hellroaring Trailhead