Boquillas Crossing

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Boquillas Crossing ©1999 Jeff Blaylock

The Rio Grande flows wide and shallow between the U.S. and Mexico. This shot is from the U.S. side, looking southwest. In more relaxed times, for a couple bucks, a person could catch a ride on a small boat across the river to Boquillas, a small outpost with decent food, good beer, and righteous music. Regrettably, this informal crossing is currently closed by order of the U.S. Department of Homeland Security.

Boquillas Crossing, BB00-101-5A, Big Bend National Park, Texas | ©1999 Jeff Blaylock.

15 Comments

this is as stupid as the fence...sound policy out of dc is athing of the past

A whole bunch of us paddling down the river last spring stopped in Boquillas for a whole afternoon. They opened the bar, cooked us food, and let us ride their old horses. It was the best time we had the whole trip. We were a little hesitant to go into the town, but there was no problem at all. We surely boosted their little economy that day. It was still as relaxed as it was in the 90s.

Jeff replies, that seems to be the best way to get to Boquillas these days -- rafting/paddling down the river, then rafting/paddling on through Boquillas Canyon. No re-entry problem coming back to US lands that way.

We visited the area in late April and the road to the crossing was heavily barred. I wish we could have visited those people. They're still crossing over near the town as well as at Rio Grande Village to replenish their supply of walking sticks, wire artwork, necklaces, etc. and retrieve donations. I agree that this is another pathetic situation where the U.S. government has screwed up again.

is there something we can do to get it re-opened like sign a petition?

Jeff replies, at this point it is best to contact your congressmen and senators in Washington, as it is a federal issue. You may also wish to contact U.S. Rep. Rennie Thompson of Mississippi. He chairs the House Committee on Homeland Security. Unfortunately, absent a change in the Administration's policy toward informal crossings -- particularly those with significant cultural significance -- or an act of Congress, I don't expect the situation to change.

is the boqillas crossing really open or is it stil closed off what about the San Vicente crossing?

Jeff replies, there are no legal border crossings within the national park, effectively cutting off access to the communities of Boquillas, Santa Elena, and San Vicente. It is an unfortunate result of the general tightening of the U.S. border following the 2001 terrorist hijackings.

Thank you for this update, Greg.

My husband and I have been concerned. Thought in the general public said not to expect anyone to remain in Boquias, but I knew some would.

I'm not sure if there's been any petition put forth. I'd be happy to sign one.

PH Buckman
Fort Worth, TX

Has anyone started a petition protesting this bureaucratic outrage?

I'm in charge of the relief efforts for Boquillas out here in the Big Bend.

The crossing was closed on May 10, 2002 and has remained closed ever since.

There are currently 18 families living in Boquillas, with a total of about 50 children and 25 adults.

We have begun a community organization to alleviate the effects of the economic crash that followed the closure.

We installed a solar-powered water pump to replace the old gasoline generator, for which they can no longer get gasoline.

We've brought several tons of donated food, clothing and medical supplies to the town in canoe flotillas.

Most importantly, we've set up a company that purchases crafts from the folks in Boquillas, imports them legally, resells them, and sends the money back down again.

The likelihood of the border ever reopening is very, very slim.

Feel free to email me at caveat5@hotmail.com if anyone has more questions, or wants to know how to visit Boquillas legally.

Just returned from Big Bend NP and visiting the old Boquillas river crossing point. Have been across many times in the past 50 years and treasured the "time standing still" atmosphere of Old Boquillas. The only change that I noticed was the tall water tower that from a distance looks like a windowless three story building. Sadly, the contentious world atmosphere now hurts those people who can't possibly understand the reasons for the change and the great hurt it causes them. Perhaps, someday, the dream of my wife's Great Uncle, E.E.Townsend, considered by some to be the Father of Big Bend National Park, will become a reality. His original idea (back in the early 30's,I think)was an International Park.

The crossing remains closed. If you are curious about what's happening, see http://airstreamlife.gather.com and click on the article "The People of Boquillas"

WHY WAS THE CROSSING CLOSED??? WILL IT EVER BE OPENED AGAIN????

Jeff,

Do you have some links on your site that point us to maps showing the distance of these towns from one another? For instance, if we deport someone and they
have no way getting back home, and they get hurt in the mean time, isn't it our fault. Don't they have families in Bodquillas who will suffer and worry while they starve to death? And isn't that more like kidnapping? This is a terrible outrage and people need to know about it.

You know, it really is quite sad to hear about the supposed closing of crossing points in Boquillas and Santa Elana. A few years back I had the privilage of visiting these sites and did successfully cross into Mexico and visited with the friendly village people. With the nearest town being 100+ miles away, it is unreasonable and illogical to assume that dope smugglers are using this as an import point. Do people not realize that there is an immigration checkpoint along the only road out of BBNP? Tractor trailers aren't allowed in the park. Such nonsense. Moreover, I lay my concern with the mexican nationals living in these quaint towns. How in the world do you expect the people of Boquillas or Santa Elana to survive without the small, steady flow of US citizens crossing over and spending nominal amounts of money on bean burritos, beer, and handmade jewlery? These people are going to die! September 11th was a horrible, tragic event, but the deal with "Homeland Security" is going overboard. Do we not have more important things to worry about? Bin Ladens are NEVER going to cross into the US via tin boats in Boquillas....and even if they did, there is a checkpoint to pass through before making it out of the park. Let's be realistic. I can understand the need for enforcement along our borders to keep illegal immigrants out, to keep our tax dollars spent on deportation and healthcare of said immigrants at a minimum, but there needs to be a small amount of flexibility. These are old, small villages. Completely detached from the crime-ridden sectors of Mexico. Come on now, Mr. Garza, growth spurt? Have you actually visited these areas? Talked with the US citizens who frequent these crossings? How about the mexican nationals who depend on the tourism? Even taken the time to look at a map and see how far it actually is if someone were ambitious enough to drive across a river and then to the nearest town a hundred miles away to find some cannabis? It's time we reevaluate our priorities.

The Park Service still reports the crossing as being closed. Certainly it is possible (and actually quite easy) to cross into Mexico and visit Boquillas, but the Park Service maintains that it is illegal to re-enter the U.S. at that point. For the latest info, please visit this page.

The Boquillas crossing is open. My family crossed over this afternoon.

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